Frequently Asked Questions
Super 100's, 110's, 120's, 150's: Designates the fineness of a wool fiber. The higher the number, the finer the fiber. The cost also goes up with the number since the product is less likely to wrinkle because of the tightness of the weave.
Higher quality slacks come without the hems sewn. Having a nice pair of slacks means having them fit properly with the correct inseam. The hems should be finished with an experienced tailor while wearing the shoes you would typically wear with the slacks. This will give the tailor your perfect inseam and make your slacks fit you properly.
Welt/quarter pockets vs. besom: welt or quarter pockets have been the traditional pockets on slacks for a very long time. They are designed to hold your hand inside the pocket because they are cut at an angle. Besom pockets are a fairly new tradition in pockets on slacks and suit hip pockets. They are typically slits where the material from both sides meet and closes without overlapping. They are meant to look less visible and more as a part of the overall silhouette. "Flap" pockets are on sport coats and suit jackets at the hip. They offer a "flap" over the pocket.
Yes, anything consisting of wool, should be dry cleaned only. Wool will shrink to an unbelievably small size and should never be laundered.
Point, tab, spread, button down, hidden button collar shirts:
Point is the typical corporate dress shirt worn with a tie by today's standards. It is sometimes referred to as a straight collar.
Tab is another corporate dress shirt worn with a tie. It is a point collar but has a button or snap that is underneath the tie, and pushes the tie up and out.
Spread is a wider point collar and may be offered in a medium or wider spread.
Button-down is a less dressy shirt and it is acceptable to wear with a tie, but generally without one. Button down collars are generally not appropriate to be worn with a suit.
Hidden button down is a dress shirt that has hidden buttons under the collar to hold down the collar . It can be worn with or without a tie.
Stays hold the collar flat. They are permanent or removable from underneath the collar. If they are permanent, they are sewn into the collar. If they are removable they are flat and slide in and out of a slot under the collar. It is advisable to remove stays before dry-cleaning or laundering since most dry cleaners forget to remove them or replace them.
Wool, Cotton and Linen are "natural" fabrics. Natural fabrics allow the body to "breathe". This means that perspiration is not retained within your clothing leaving an odor. If your body can breathe, then odors are less likely to occur. Polyester, whether it is a microfiber or not is a synthetic (man-made) material that can trap body heat and perspiration.
Dry clean your suits only when they are dirty - once per season is usually sufficient. Dry cleaning gradually destroys the natural luster of the cloth and should only be done when truly necessary. If your clothing is wrinkled, but not dirty, have it pressed.
Combine navy/blue suits with black, burgundy (or chili) Combine charcoal or black suits tones with black Combine earth tones (olives, tans and browns) with brown, chili or burgundy.
Shoes should be given 72 hours rest between wearings. This is recommended to keep your shoes in top shape. Cedar shoe trees will help maintain the shape of the shoe and absorb moisture and odors.
Always have your shirts laundered at a quality commercial dry cleaner. Light to medium starch is sufficient to maintain a crisp look, heavy starches are not good for the long term care of your shirts. Remember to remove the collar stays from your dress shirts before sending them to the laundry, or they will get lost or leave a mark on the collars.
The name cashmere comes from Kashmir, the mountainous area of India and Pakistan. Cashmere is the wool from the soft undercoat of the Kashmir goat. Cashmere is one of the softest fabrics available and is unique because it provides warmth without weight.